First off, everyone here has done some amazing work!
I'm the new guy here... I haven't been making figures very long only a few months. So as way of introduction I wanted to show some of the figures I have made.
I'm a huge fan of Young Justice and didn't know the figures ever came out until well after the show was off the air. After spending too much on eBay I was bummed to find out they didn't make all of the figures!!!
So I set out to make my own.
I started out with some simple repaints and then got into some sculpting... Any constructive criticism is welcome. Also I have ton of questions about the finer points of this art...
I hope these images format correctly, I apologize if they don't.
Last Edit: Jan 26, 2017 0:13:45 GMT -5 by finnlock
Quick fun figure. Beast Boy! Because I don't have a body to scale for him I made this one as a filler until I can figure out a way to make him properly. Maybe 3D printing will be the answer...(don't have a 3D printer however).
One of the figures I most wanted made, so I did it myself. The base is a YJ Kid Flash, Aqua Lad arms and a cast Flash head trimmed down. Still need to finish the paint on him.
Post by GeekVarietyCustoms on Jan 26, 2017 1:37:33 GMT -5
Work looks really good. I would suggest a few things if I may:
- I see youre using the OOMOO from Smooth On so Im going to assume your dont have a pressure pot setup for making molds? If you do have a pressure pot setup I would suggest using one of the platinum grade silicones they sell at Smooth On. Your molds will last substantially longer using the platinum cure silicones than that OOMOO which is very low strength and tends to tear very easily.
- Something Casmir hit me off too was using Testors Dullcote to take the shine off of figures and to seal them. Again not sure if you want the gloss look or not but Dullcote is a great sealer and it will smooth out the finish of your figures nicely.
Im really impressed by your work. Looks like youre using Pactra tape or something along those lines for the fine detailing and your work is super clean as a result. Great work.
Also sorry if the forums are a bit dead, but things have slowed down here quite a bit over the last year or so, but welcome anyhow and thanks for sharing your work, I know folks will love to see your stuff cuz its really good.
Awesome stuff man. Especially that slade and blue beetle. Were they original sculpts? And lastly welcome to the forums
Thanks, Slade was sculpted over an Aquaman upper body and head with Sports Master legs. Blue Beetle was sculpted over a Kid Flash body with Aqualad arms and a Flash head.
Work looks really good. I would suggest a few things if I may:
- I see youre using the OOMOO from Smooth On so Im going to assume your dont have a pressure pot setup for making molds? If you do have a pressure pot setup I would suggest using one of the platinum grade silicones they sell at Smooth On. Your molds will last substantially longer using the platinum cure silicones than that OOMOO which is very low strength and tends to tear very easily.
- Something Casmir hit me off too was using Testors Dullcote to take the shine off of figures and to seal them. Again not sure if you want the gloss look or not but Dullcote is a great sealer and it will smooth out the finish of your figures nicely.
Im really impressed by your work. Looks like youre using Pactra tape or something along those lines for the fine detailing and your work is super clean as a result. Great work.
Also sorry if the forums are a bit dead, but things have slowed down here quite a bit over the last year or so, but welcome anyhow and thanks for sharing your work, I know folks will love to see your stuff cuz its really good.
Some great advice, thanks! I don't have a pot and I live in an APT so unless I shell out for a high-end compressor it might not go over so well, but I'd love to have one
I have the OOMOO because I was told it worked well with NOVOCS....My plan is to make some molds with the NOVOCS so they shrink down and I have a scale appropriate figure for Beast Boy, Klarion, Billy Batson and maybe a season one scale Robin. I haven't tried it out with the NOVOCS yet, I want to find out if it works with Dragon Skin because the OOMOO is too rigid and doesn't do well with the small undercut details. Have anyone of you used NOVOCS with Dragon Skin?
I don't use Testors really, I had some miss haps and now I try and stick with water based acrylics for the most part. The paint job on Red Hood is a prime example of that... I had some paint issues and it resulted in some botched paint that won't fully dry now. I tried a few things I saw online to try and fix it and none of them worked So what do you guys do when this happens to you, is there a way to fix it?
Lastly Yes I use the Pactra tape. I like the clean lines it gives, but I don't like using it. I find I need to clean off the adhesive and superglue it down, which can be messy, otherwise it won't hold. My batgirl is a mess because of that. Do you guys have any tips or other products that could work, maybe one that follows curves a little better?
Ugh...yeah..I got a bit ahead of myself with him...He's a hot mess. I started sculpting over a Superboy body with Greenstuff and it was very rough as the greenstuff I used didn't take sanding very well. I then switched over to Apoxie Sculpt, but a lot of the detail work had already been done. I did what I could and the body itself isn't too bad it's the head that haunts me, lol. It was one of my 1st attempts at a head sculpt...I will need to re-visit him soon
Here are some shots of the Hot mess I made of the Joker.... I was never very happy with him so it took me a long time to finally get him to a paint stage and I'm still not supper happy about how he turned out. Everything is so rough... One of the cool things about him is the shoes, they are a weird casting from the Chinese supplier I got him from, they are all most like platform boots with really long treads so he stads taller then a normal Superboy but still shorter then Batman.
Post by GeekVarietyCustoms on Jan 28, 2017 5:47:00 GMT -5
" I don't use Testors really, I had some miss haps and now I try and stick with water based acrylics for the most part. The paint job on Red Hood is a prime example of that... I had some paint issues and it resulted in some botched paint that won't fully dry now. I tried a few things I saw online to try and fix it and none of them worked So what do you guys do when this happens to you, is there a way to fix it?"
Basically whats happening is, whatever paint you're using has solvents in it to keep it liquid or maybe the spray you use to seal it has solvents in it and when you spray the figure, the solvents are essentially melting the plastic underneath. Okay melting isnt the proper terminology but whats happening is its breaking down the plastic chemically and releasing oil from the plastic which then creates the always sticky issue. You wanna use acrylics pretty much across the board because like you said they are water based and wont contribute to this issue. Also when you use Dullcote you need to pay attention to the directions and hold the can far away and go over it in light coats so you dont have the stuff pooling up on the figure which helps the solvents evaporate more easily and cuts down on the chemical breakdown of the plastics resulting in the sticky mess.
Oh and as far as the Pactra tape not sticking, yeah Ive had that happen before where the adhesive isnt always so great and also have to use super glue on occasion.
Keep up the good work sir, really enjoy what I'm seeing from you.
" I don't use Testors really, I had some miss haps and now I try and stick with water based acrylics for the most part. The paint job on Red Hood is a prime example of that... I had some paint issues and it resulted in some botched paint that won't fully dry now. I tried a few things I saw online to try and fix it and none of them worked So what do you guys do when this happens to you, is there a way to fix it?"
Basically whats happening is, whatever paint you're using has solvents in it to keep it liquid or maybe the spray you use to seal it has solvents in it and when you spray the figure, the solvents are essentially melting the plastic underneath. Okay melting isnt the proper terminology but whats happening is its breaking down the plastic chemically and releasing oil from the plastic which then creates the always sticky issue. You wanna use acrylics pretty much across the board because like you said they are water based and wont contribute to this issue. Also when you use Dullcote you need to pay attention to the directions and hold the can far away and go over it in light coats so you dont have the stuff pooling up on the figure which helps the solvents evaporate more easily and cuts down on the chemical breakdown of the plastics resulting in the sticky mess.
Oh and as far as the Pactra tape not sticking, yeah Ive had that happen before where the adhesive isnt always so great and also have to use super glue on occasion.
Keep up the good work sir, really enjoy what I'm seeing from you.
I remember Using testors enamel for my first custom. Worst stuff ever. Not only is it messy but it skinks. Tester do (or did) make model acrylics. I picked some up at michael's a few years back. The best paint I ever used has to be tamiya acrylics. Very clean stuff and dries nice and thin but it seems to be hard to find out in stores.
" I don't use Testors really, I had some miss haps and now I try and stick with water based acrylics for the most part. The paint job on Red Hood is a prime example of that... I had some paint issues and it resulted in some botched paint that won't fully dry now. I tried a few things I saw online to try and fix it and none of them worked So what do you guys do when this happens to you, is there a way to fix it?"
Basically whats happening is, whatever paint you're using has solvents in it to keep it liquid or maybe the spray you use to seal it has solvents in it and when you spray the figure, the solvents are essentially melting the plastic underneath. Okay melting isnt the proper terminology but whats happening is its breaking down the plastic chemically and releasing oil from the plastic which then creates the always sticky issue. You wanna use acrylics pretty much across the board because like you said they are water based and wont contribute to this issue. Also when you use Dullcote you need to pay attention to the directions and hold the can far away and go over it in light coats so you dont have the stuff pooling up on the figure which helps the solvents evaporate more easily and cuts down on the chemical breakdown of the plastics resulting in the sticky mess.
Oh and as far as the Pactra tape not sticking, yeah Ive had that happen before where the adhesive isnt always so great and also have to use super glue on occasion.
Keep up the good work sir, really enjoy what I'm seeing from you.
I remember Using testors enamel for my first custom. Worst stuff ever. Not only is it messy but it skinks. Tester do (or did) make model acrylics. I picked some up at michael's a few years back. The best paint I ever used has to be tamiya acrylics. Very clean stuff and dries nice and thin but it seems to be hard to find out in stores.
I had very poor luck with tamiya. I found that even when they dried, when you started going over them again they would pull up off the figure and start clumping up with the wet paint and I got sick of that real fast. Granted there are always variables involved like temp and humidity and such so it could just be where I am located, but I just didnt like the paints at all from my experience. I love the model masters acrylic paints from testor though. Never had any issues with them at all so Ive stuck with them.